…descanso total…


Relaxing. Something I haven’t spent so much time doing of late – relaxed perhaps, but not alone, fully desconectado. It’s a rare occurrence even for me with nothing specific to “do”. I surf, talk, message, check forecast, eat, sleep, shop, check waves, fill water, wait for tides, eat, sleep, surf, stare at the ocean; and yet the descanso total is beyond.

It’s partly there being more people around – and more people who I want to be around – and it’s also the surf: if there are waves then I am constantly attentive to them, the wind, tide, and when there are none all of this “activity” is gone so – if I also find myself alone – then out comes the guitar, the journal, the music, the book, etc. and when I’ve put each of those down… I’m left with me, just me.

New swell arrives tomorrow…


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